Wolseley WD8 Long Period Restoration begins!!

Hi Boys and Girls!!

Well for a few months ive been wanting to do a restoration but i didnt know which engine of mine deserved it until tonight!!

I decided to give my Wolseley WD8 the treatment!!

This will be my first proper paint strip off, decoke, valve ground restoration!!

Tonight with some help from John i took off the Flywheel, the head, water jacket door and tappet cover!!

Here are some pics below









As you can see in the second picture there has been alot of build up rust but some of this was caused when i first recieved this engine as the hopper was really flakey with rust!

The piston had alot of carbon along with the valves etc so all of that will be cleaned!

Its funny to see my engine in bits!!

Anyway i dont want to rush with the restoration so i will post things when things have been done more progress!

Hope you enjoy
Adam

Looking good take you time its all worth it in the end
Chris

working quick adam, was the flywheel hard to remove, are you going the distance with this one and removing piston set up and crank

Thanks Chris i will be taking my time with this one

Yes Ryan im hoping to take out the piston to inspect the rings as the bore was a tad oiley

John took off the gib key it came off easily so that was good!

Thanks
Adam

Good work Adam, she looks great topless...

Yep and ready with oil to strip things off more easily

Thanks for your comments

Adam

Ha! Before long you'll be having a good crank...

So how do you remove the valves to grind them in? I've never done it but, would like to know. Also how easy do the cylinder head nuts come off, looking at all the rust that fell out they must have been well rusted up or did you fill the hopper with diesel for a few days first and let it soak in.

Stu

Nuts SHOULD be brass Stu, and the valve's are accessed through the tappet cover (shown removed in the 2nd from last pic). Same as a PT, the valve's are retained by a pin through the valve stem. The water jacket plates can corrode away so need to be checked while off.

Pete

Thanks for that Pete, think it's time to de-coke my engine.

Stu.

Foden wrote:Nuts SHOULD be brass Stu, and the valve's are accessed through the tappet cover (shown removed in the 2nd from last pic). Same as a PT, the valve's are retained by a pin through the valve stem. The water jacket plates can corrode away so need to be checked while off.

Pete

Exactly that Stu

Hi Pete!

Yeh my water jacket plate needs replacing as its thin and rusty

I cant wait to crack on but need the paints first before i take off the old paint

Adam

Hi Chaps!

Just a quick update

Basically i cleaned out all of the crud in the sump and been grinding in the valves

Next to do is hone the bore out, clean the rings and get some new oil seals, Gasket paper and Head Gasket then after all of this i will start to take the paint off and repaint it

Adam

Hi Chaps!

I was wondering when it comes to hone my bore do i need to put oil around the bore first or just leave it and just hone?

Thanks
Adam

If you are using a honing tool Adam you will need some kind of lubrication otherwise you will soon need an O/Size piston, we used to dip the tool in paraffin or diesel first. Go steady as well, it should only require a few seconds (just enough to take the shine off of the cylinder) and keep the hone moving up and down the bore or it will end up tapered. Keep it clear of the crankshaft though, and give everything a good washout as the grit gets everywhere.
If you are just using emery paper etc you will still need paraffin etc but doing it by hand you shouldn't wear the cylinder out!

Pete.

i had one of these and what a engine many a happy hour on the rally scene without any trouble