Re: Petter A1 resto(ish)

Nate on Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:37 pm

i never thought of that! i'll liberate a big puller from work tonight Smile

RAB on Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:46 pm

Im looking forward to seeing the finnished item, that looks a nice colour.

What is it?

Paul

Nate on Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:55 am

landrover cranberry red metallic. the main block and possibly the flywheel and pulley will be white. wanted cream, but i couldn't find cream machine paint Crying or Very sad

so went with what they had in stock. all tinware and bolt on parts will be red. thought it'd look more interesting that all being the same.

stationary stu on Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:55 am

It might help if you keep getting some WD40 down the back and the the keyway for a few days first. The pulley looks as if got a few coats of paint on it try cleaning it off around the keyway etc before you start.

Stu.

Nate on Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:02 am

finally got round to trying to get this damn pulley off. cleaned all the paint off the face of it, then gave it a daily dose of plusgas from both sides for just over a week.

took it in to work tonight and got a 10 ton hydraulic puller on it. not a sausage. couldn't get it to move even slightly.

anyone got any suggestions how i can get that key out?

stationary stu on Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:22 am

There's always tryng to get some heat on to it, also if you can get in and hit it as the shock might be enough to break the seal. I've not had much trouble with mine so can't help much sorry.

Stu.

Nate on Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:37 am

i only really need to get it off to rebuild the bottom of the tinware, so i think i might see if i can repair it without taking the pulleys off

RAB on Sat Jul 30, 2011 3:18 pm

Nate wrote:had a look at getting the pulley of this afternoon. i can't get a drift in behind the key for the pulley, as it is in there tight. anyone got any suggestions?

so i decided i'd paint some more stuff. got the clearcoat on the cylinder head cover. i know it's not perfect, but getting all the bends out of it is way beyond my metalworking ability, and quite a lot of it will be hidden under the fuel tank.

and i got the cranking handle painted. it had virtually no rust on it, as it was so heavily caked in oily sludge. the wooden hand grip has split and was held on with insulting tape. it all got de-greased, a coat of etch primer, 2 coats red primer, 2 coats colour and 3 clear coats. seems to have come out quite well. i'm getting better at this painting lark the wooden handle was sanded back and given a few coats of clear. i'll glue it back together around the spindle (easier than trying to get the retaining bit off - looks like it is riveted?) then give it another few coats of clear. need to give it a few days for the paint to fully harden off 1st

the spring loaded pin that engages the crank into the shaft on the engine was held in with a split pin. is this correct, or should it be a roll pin in there?

Hi Bud,

put a bit of heat on the centre of the pully until its nice and warm, then get a bit of scafolden pipe with a notch cut out for the key.

When the pully is toastie hot, put the pipe aver the pully and give it a good whack with a decent size hammer, You wont have to knock it far, just enough to break the seal of rust.

Paul

RAB on Sat Jul 30, 2011 3:20 pm

By the way, Ive never got a flywheel of without cracking it so best of luck.

Paul

Nate on Sat Jul 30, 2011 5:08 pm

RAB wrote:Ive never got a flywheel of without cracking it

that's clinched it. it stays on there and i'll repair the tin around it.

cheers for the advise guys Very Happy

RAB on Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:53 am

Nate wrote:
RAB wrote:Ive never got a flywheel of without cracking it

that's clinched it. it stays on there and i'll repair the tin around it.

cheers for the advise guys

Hob has been able to geet his flywheel of in one piece so dont give up bud.

stationary stu on Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:04 am

It's a pays your money and take your chance way of thinking, but seeing as you've had heat on it I'd give it one last go as the heat may have cooled and cracked the seal after your last atempt.
Good luck which ever way you go.

Stu.

Guest on Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:35 am

I like the colour good choice.

Cheers Steve

RAB on Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:22 pm

Skankin_giant wrote:I like the colour good choice.

Cheers Steve

Yes i totaly agree its a nice colour, makes a change from the usual green.

Nate on Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:55 am

the main block and a couple of other bits are going to be white. not put any of it on yet, but i'm now unsure about choosing hammered finish - wishing i'd just gone for the smooth. still, if it looks poo i can always strip it off and do it again.

my saw bench is going to be the same - white with red detailing