Petter A1 resto(ish)

thought this would make more sense as a new thread here, rather than carrying on my fuel tank thread.

so, next up for the rust removal is the first piece of tinware. it has previously been badly painted, by the looks of it with little to no prep work to try and keep the rust down - they didn't even take the badge off the only part of this i'm slightly concerned about is the rusty hole. if i can find my brave pills, i'll have a go at welding a patch in. failing that, it'll get made up with checmical metal or similar. hopefully the inside will clean up fine







so, it got chucked in a plastic tank, along with some scrap steel (the brick is to prop stuff up on) and some soda. it is important to get the correct amount of soda for the amount of water your tank holds, so i carefully measured out "some" soda then filled the tank with water. ended up using my 24v battery charger as a power source, the car battery i'd got for doing it appears to be flat. i also managed to speed up the reaction but fiddling about with positioning of the sacrificial anodes.



you can see the bubbles coming off the metal that is being de-rusted (this was with a flat car battery powering



once it's been going for a while, you get this lovely orange scum on the water



from the looks of it, the flywheel needs to come off to get at the next bit if tinware off, but i can't figure out what holds it together. i was expecting one of more nuts/bolts in the middle of the flywheel, but can't find them can anyone give me any pointers?

hi Nate..
that's a fine looking bit of kit..does it work well..
if its not to expensive mite have to sort something for myself
please can you give me the details
regards,mike...

from the looks of it, the flywheel needs to come off to get at the next bit if tinware off, but i can't figure out what holds it together. i was expecting one of more nuts/bolts in the middle of the flywheel, but can't find them can anyone give me any pointers?

hi' i'm doing the same engine at the moment here
http://www.stationaryengineforum.net/t3372-my-first-engine

the pulley (if you have one) and the flywheel are keyed onto the shaft, both have to be removed to get that next guard off


behind the flywheel is this bearing cover

held on by 6 bolts, the tinware cover has 3 metal strips welded to it that also are held on by three of the cover bolts. it would help me if you could note the position of the arrowed lug on the bearing cover as it needs to go back in the right position for the oil grooves in the bearing and i forgot to mark mine before i removed it.
hope this helps you, read my topic to see how other bits come off mine is almost fully stripped now

Neville

mike d wrote:hi Nate..
that's a fine looking bit of kit..does it work well..
if its not to expensive mite have to sort something for myself
please can you give me the details
regards,mike...

it's a 4 gallon central heating header tank which was just over a fiver from toolstation, a set of jump leads and a fully charged car battery (or you can just use a battery charger, so long as it isn't the 'smart charge' type)

the solution is just water and soda crystals (google 'electrolytic rust removal' and there are plenty of site that will tell you how much soda to use per litre of water) and you get them from the supermarket for about a quid, which will make gallons and gallons of electrolyte

after 24 hours bubbling away:



i fished it out and cleaned it with water and a toothbrush







almost all of the rust is now gone. the rusty steel is left blackened, and the clean steel is still as it was. this dried off quickly in the sunshine, and has just been given a coat of acid etch primer. soon as that's had some time to dry, i'll get some filler on the badly pitted areas and then get some colour on it. yay!

Great job your doing, I think we've all herd about your rust removal method but were abit afraid to try it but it sure does a great job. Think you've give us all a boost to give it a go. If your still thinking about welding the hole I think it could all go to hole where it's pitted, myself I'd be thinking of a patch inside and gas brazing then a bit of filler. If your just using filler you'll need fibreglass as just filler will crack after the engine has run a few times.

Stu.

when i get the next bit of tin off, that's definately gonna need some fabrication. the bottom part has more or less completely dissolved

You could always check ebay see what for sale.

Stu.

what is the ratio for the soda crystals to water as im thinking on doing this to a lister a but as can imagine the engine is alot bigger and heavier so a bigger tank will be needed ... Would this work on cast iron as well ?

Do you realise you can remove the blackness by dunking it in coke for a few hours ?

that's the next project then for sure..thanks for the information..
regards,mike.

tomorrow morning i'm off to collect my sawbench that i won on ebay, then if the weather is nice i'm gonna crack on with the engine.

next up i need to take the pulleys off. do i just pull the keys out with a slide hammer, then get a big puller on the pulley to get it off the shaft? or is there a less vicious method?

mike d wrote:hi Nate..
that's a fine looking bit of kit..does it work well..
if its not to expensive mite have to sort something for myself
please can you give me the details
regards,mike...

Mike,
Have a look at this below:-

http://www.stationaryengineforum.net/t3251-rust-removal-using-electrolysis

Thats the first time ive seen this process done, it works well.

Thanks for sharing that with us Nate

Paul

had a look at getting the pulley of this afternoon. i can't get a drift in behind the key for the pulley, as it is in there tight. anyone got any suggestions?







so i decided i'd paint some more stuff. got the clearcoat on the cylinder head cover. i know it's not perfect, but getting all the bends out of it is way beyond my metalworking ability, and quite a lot of it will be hidden under the fuel tank.



and i got the cranking handle painted. it had virtually no rust on it, as it was so heavily caked in oily sludge. the wooden hand grip has split and was held on with insulting tape. it all got de-greased, a coat of etch primer, 2 coats red primer, 2 coats colour and 3 clear coats. seems to have come out quite well. i'm getting better at this painting lark the wooden handle was sanded back and given a few coats of clear. i'll glue it back together around the spindle (easier than trying to get the retaining bit off - looks like it is riveted?) then give it another few coats of clear. need to give it a few days for the paint to fully harden off 1st





the spring loaded pin that engages the crank into the shaft on the engine was held in with a split pin. is this correct, or should it be a roll pin in there?

had a look at getting the pulley of this afternoon. i can't get a drift in behind the key for the pulley, as it is in there tight. anyone got any suggestions?

thats OK, it means the key will drag out with the pulley if its tight up to the pulley you will not pull it tighter onto the key, just pull it off with the key still in. thats how i got mine off.